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美不胜收的哥本哈根

2006-02-27 00:00

  Spotlight on Copenhagen

  Are you too old for fairy tales? If you think so, Copenhagen is sure to change your mind.

  See the city first from the water. In the harbor sits Denmark's best-known landmark: the Little Mermaid. Remember her? She left the world of the Sea People in search of a human soul in one of Hans Christian Andersen's beloved fantasies. From the harbor you can get a feel for the attractive "city of green spires." At twilight or in cloudy weather, the copper-covered spires of old castles and churches lend the city a dream-like atmosphere. You'll think you've stepped into a watercolor painting.

  Copenhagen is a city on a human scale. You don't have to hurry to walk the city's center in less than an hour. Exploring it will take much longer. But that's easy. Copenhagen was the first city to declare a street for pedestrians only. The city has less traffic noise and pollution than any other European capital.

  Stroll away from the harbor along the riverbanks, you'll see the modest Amalienborg Palace first. Completed in the mid-18th century, it still houses the royal family. The Danish Royal Guard is on duty. At noon, you'll watch the changing of the guard. The guards are not just for show, however. Danes will always remember their heroism on April 9, 1940. When the Nazis invaded Denmark, the guards aimed their guns and fired. Soldiers fell on both sides. The guards would all have been killed if the king hadn't ordered them to surrender.

  Churches and castles are almost all that remain of the original city. Copenhagen became the capital of Denmark in 1445. During the late 16th century, trade grew, and so did the city. But fires in 1728 and 1795 destroyed the old wooden structures. Much of what we see today dates from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

  See one of the spires up close-really close-at the 17th-century Church of Our Savior. Brave souls may climb the 150 stairs winding outside the spire to its top. If you're afraid of heights, or if it s a windy day, you can forget the climb. But then you'll miss the magnificent view.

  Once the earth is under your feet again (you'll enjoy the feeling), cross the nearest bridge to Castle Island. The curious yet majestic-looking spire ahead tops the oldest stock exchange in Europe, built in 1619. Its spire is formed from the entwined tails of three dragons. They represent Denmark, Sweden and Norway.

  Keep going, to the Christiansborg Palace. The town of Copenhagen began here. Stop and visit the medieval castle. Parliament and the Royal Reception Chambers are open, too. Then continue to Nyhavn, a narrow waterway dug by soldiers in 1673. You'll understand why Hans Christian Andersen made this charming waterway his home. A specially-built mirror outside his apartment window allowed him to peek unseen at the world outside.

  Nyhavn is peaceful, an ideal place for lingering and people-watching. You'll usually see them dressed casually, though they are among Europe s rich people. Danes are taught not to stand out in a crowd. But they do know how to party, especially during holidays.

  To see them having fun, and to have some fun yourself, cross Andersens Boulevard and enter Tivoli Gardens. You won t be alone. More than five million people a year come here. They come to dance, dine, take in outdoor and indoor concerts, see ballets and laugh at the comedy. One tip: Bring a lot of money. About 20 restaurants are among the city's most expensive. Even without money, you can still enjoy the proud old trees, the colored night lights and the beautiful gardens. You might feel as if you are in a fairy tale.

  丹麦哥本哈根:美不胜收的童话之都

  你是否已经老得不想听童话了?如果你是这么认为的话,哥本哈根一定能够改变你的想法。

  要看这座城市,先从水看起。丹麦最有名的标志性建筑——小小美人鱼就坐落在港口处。记得她吗?在安徒生的一个童话里,她离开了海底世界,想变成一个真正的人。安徒生的许多幻想故事都很受欢迎哩。从这个港口你可以领略到这座迷人的"绿色塔尖之城"的魅力。黎明时分或天气阴霾的时候,旧堡垒和教堂的镀铜塔尖给这个城市蒙上了梦一般的气氛。你会以为自己步入了一幅水彩画中。

  哥本哈根是一个很人性化的城市。你不需要在一小时内匆匆地将市中心走完。考察这个城市要花上更长的时间。但那也是件很轻松的事。哥本哈根是第一个划出步行街的城市。比起欧洲其他国家的首都,这个城市的交通噪音和污染少了许多。

  自港口沿着河岸漫步,最先映入眼帘的是风格朴实的阿玛利安堡皇宫。阿玛利安堡皇宫于18世纪中期完工,皇室家族至今居住于此。皇家卫队仍在这里执行任务。中午可以观赏卫兵换岗的仪式。但是,这些卫兵绝不仅仅是装装样子而已。丹麦人永远记得他们在1940年4月9日的英勇事迹。当时纳粹分子入侵丹麦,这些卫兵举枪瞄准并且开火。双方都有士兵阵亡。如果国王不叫他们投降的话,这些卫兵可能全都战死沙场了。

  教堂与古堡大概是古城遗留下来的惟一的东西。哥本哈根于1445年成为丹麦的首都。16世纪末,贸易发展带动了城市的发展。但是,城中的旧式木建筑在1728年和1795年的两场大火中毁于一旦。今天我们所看到的大部分建筑都是在19世纪和20世纪初建造的。

  仔细看其中一个塔尖——真正靠近地看——这座建于17世纪的"我们的救世主"教堂。勇敢的人可能会爬上那在尖塔外蜿蜒而上直通塔顶的150层阶梯。如果你有恐高症,或者当天风很大,那就免了吧。不过,你会因此错过那壮观的景色。

  当你再次稳稳地踏在土地上(你会喜欢这种感觉的),你可以通过最近的桥到城堡岛。前方有个1619年建造的欧洲最古老的证券交易中心,上面的塔尖奇特而又宏伟。塔尖由三只龙尾缠绕而成,分别代表丹麦、瑞典和挪威。

  继续往前,走到基斯汀堡。哥本哈根源自此处。停下来游览这个中世纪的古堡。议院和皇家接待室也同样开放,然后继续往尼哈芬走去,它是1673年由士兵挖成的狭窄水道。你会明白为什么汉斯?克里斯蒂安?安徒生把这个迷人的水道当成自己的家。通过公寓窗外的一面特制的镜子,他能够看到外面的世界而又不被人发现。

  尼哈芬是个宁静的地方,它也是个逗留和观看行人的理想处所。虽然他们是欧洲最有钱的人,但是你通常都会看到他们穿得很随意。丹麦人所受的教育是在人群中不要显得鹤立鸡群。但是他们却很喜爱聚会,特别是在假日的时候。

  要看丹麦人嬉乐,要想自己找到乐趣,你可以走过安徒生大道,进入提弗利花园,在这儿你是不会寂寞的。每年有超过500万的人来此旅游。他们来这里跳舞、就餐、欣赏户外和室內音乐会,看芭蕾舞表演,观看喜剧开怀大笑。给你一个建议:多带钱。20家左右的餐厅是本城里最昂贵的。即使没有钱,你仍可以欣赏那些傲人的老树、五光十色的彩灯,以及美丽的花园。你可能会以为自己置身于童话故事当中呢。

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